If you desire to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.

 

Second, you have to eliminate copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.

 

Remove the brush, pipe it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleansing rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put three solvent restore the bore. The last one must come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.

 

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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.

 

If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue stains, back to the J-B.

 

Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much even worse than others. As a guideline, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary treatments work? I question it. I have actually had a couple of cases where a barrel all of a sudden began to group as I reached completion of the procedure, however I have actually had much more burglaries that made no distinction at all.

 

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They work, often, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and since I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I'm reluctant to take the chance. Also, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.

 

Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They want them immaculate. And spotless is an excellent way to go.

 

The actions to properly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field stripping or total disassembly. We'll cover basic field stripping in this post. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article. This is the most crucial action in the whole cleaning process.

 

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Get additional information about this rifle, check this link.

 

Utilizing a cleaning tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning up swabs, and remove any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be removed with a light application of cleaner and allowing it to sit for a couple of minutes prior to brushing.

 

One common misconception is that more is better when it comes to lubrication of your gun.

 

Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that removing copper can take a while.

 

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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Costs Buckley Note: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.

 

What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out in there. So as soon as you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a number of dry patches down the bore, followed by a number of patches that have been damp with a routine cleaning solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.